Monday, 6 May 2019

The Punk Pig






“Have you told Beth?” asked Patrice, popping his head around the door.

“No, not yet!”

Patrice shrugged, gave me a nervy wave and disappeared.

This awkward exchange between Melanie, my pal, and her husband occurred during my ‘nails’ appointment. Melanie, a beautician who works from home, was applying a coat of gel gungy stuff at the time. By the way, I know, it’s uber-girlie, but with my outdoor lifestyle, my fingers suffer from that just-been-attacked-by-the-cheese-grater look if I don’t get them fixed. It’s a damage control situation.

The pair of them looked so shifty I had to ask.

“Well, what?”

Melanie looked troubled.

“The problem is it’s illegal here in France.”

“I see,” I replied, not seeing at all. “Then don’t feel you have to tell me.”

“I must, we need your help.”

This was tricky. We’ve been through many scrapes in our short history here, but being incarcerated hasn’t featured.

Yet.

 Still, I thought, they’re our friends so we’d better help if we can.

“Okay, in that case, you’ll have to tell me.”

Melanie stuck my nails in the UV machine to cook and began her tale. Here’s the abridged version.

Patrice is an animal lover with a reputation for rescuing and recuperating injured creatures. He was out walking in a remote area with his dogs when two baby boar burst out of a bush. As Patrice fought to control his dogs, one of the babies scampered off into a thicket. The other tried to follow but was evidently weak. It collapsed. Bleeding from a hidden wound.

Patrice hunted around for their mum, but there were no other boar in the area. He briefly examined the piglet, found the cut and made a snap decision. Grabbing his rucksack, he popped the little one inside and took it home.

Melanie is chic (positively gorgeous, actually), and very house proud. Therefore, you might imagine her reaction when she returned from shopping to find piglet swaddled in a baby cot in front of the fire.

It was a familiar scenario. Melanie’s initial aaah’s quickly evaporated as the youngster’s bowels were activated. She tolerated the situation for a few days before demanding its removal to the garage.

Over the next few weeks the youngster, fed on cow’s milk, recovered from what turned out to be superficial injuries. It was developing fast, she said.

“Presumably, Patrice released it back into the wild like he normally does?” I asked.

“No, he refused,” Melanie said, arching her brows. “He was worried it would get shot by the local hunters. Anyway, he was too attached to it. The next problem was that it grew and we couldn’t garage the car without risking squashing it.”

“Oh, so what happened?”

“It’s in the kennel with the dogs.”

“Gosh!” I hadn’t expected that one.

“It’s illegal to raise wild boar in captivity without a proper licence,” she said, “so it’s becoming a problem with our neighbours. We have to keep it in the shed during the day, and Patrice lets it out at night to play with the dogs.”

This was sounding weirder by the minute.

“So now that it’s a bit older,” continued Melanie, “we wondered if we could release it into the enclosed section of your forest where it will be protected from hunters.”

To hang with regulations! Having saved its life, I felt the least we could do was to give the little one a home.

“No problem,” I smiled, still under the impression we were talking about a relative tiddler. “I know Jack will agree. If Patrice can bring it over, we’ll take it.”

Patrice reappeared at the end of my session and was thrilled at my decision.

“You must see her now,” he grinned rushing off across the lawn.

The dog’s compound was tennis court size with a big shed in the middle. Shooing his three bouncy mutts to one side, he carefully opened the door.

“This is Sophie,” he beamed.

And there she was.

Tiddler? Nope. Sophie was a near full-sized, extremely healthy, tubby boar.

Thinking it was playtime, Sophie gambolled determinedly towards the doorway, embedding me in the wall as she swept past to join her pals.

Patrice clucked at his beloved, chiding her for being clumsy and tried to entice her back in. It wasn’t easy. Sophie thought she was a dog, and she wanted to romp.

“What do you feed her on?” I puffed, as she gallumped past me for the umpteenth time.

“Dog food. She loves it.”



“Of course she does,” I replied, wondering whether she ate bones too.

We finally drove Sophie back in where she settled down amiably.

I returned home to brief Jack, whose reaction was predictable.

“Hah!” he chuckled, “we’ve come across some strange situations here and this one’s right up with the best of them.”

Time passed, as did my next nails appointment. Was Sophie ready? Not yet, apparently. Why? I never did find out. Meanwhile, Sophie was still growing.

The call from Patrice finally came early one evening about six weeks later. He had Sophie in a cage and could he bring her over straight away? Of course, we agreed. Soon after, Patrice turned up in his Peugeot. It’s a little car so we naturally presumed there would be some kind of trailer behind.

“Bloody hell! Look at the back of the car,” said Jack, “the tyres are almost touching the wheel arches. It must be in there!”

A large blanket covered something in the back. It filled the seat and either end pressed against the windows. Patrice opened the rear door, removed the drape and out rushed an explosive pong of hot boar. His passenger was indeed Sophie.


Sophie wasn’t at all happy at being incarcerated. We could hear the growls and see the stamping hooves as she strained to break free. She had also grown quite a bit. A lot, actually. Fortunately, the makeshift cage Patrice had somehow squeezed her in had metal bars otherwise she doubtless would have eaten her way through in seconds.

Fortunately, Nathan, our forester, was still around and was pressganged into helping. The four of us carried the heaving mass of grumpy boar and loaded her into our old 4x4 forest vehicle, which also buckled under the weight.

“How on earth did you manage to get it in the car by yourself?” asked Jack.

“She trusts me,” said Patrice, “I gave her lots of dog biscuits and she walked in quietly.”

Good old Soph wasn’t at all quiet now. The car rocked on our short journey to her new home as she tried to eat her way out. We had folded down the rear seats to make more room for us all and I was stuck in the back with her. Mid-chew, Sophie paused, turned her shaggy head and eyeballed me. I froze. Vivid memories of that scene in Jurassic park involving Velociraptors popped into my head. Sophie may not be a dinosaur, but she certainly wasn’t an animal to be messed with. I didn’t even blink.

We reached our destination unscathed and carefully removed the cage. Patrice produced an electric power tool and started removing bars. Halfway through he stopped.

Merde! I forgot.”

“What now?” said Jack, trying to stop Sophie bulging out of the sides.

“I have paint.”

“What?” we both cried.

“I must colour Sophie’s mane so you can always identify her in the woods. Then you can tell me when she has her first babies.”

Before Jack could give him an opinion on this latest brainwave, Patrice dashed back to the car. He returned with a can of spray paint, the type commonly used to mark sheep. He took careful aim and covered her long spiky mane with crimson red. Then he stood back, shrugged and showered a big circle of the stuff on her backside.

“Bullseye! So now we have a punk pig roaming around the forest. It’s going to be hard to miss this one,” observed Jack.



The final screw was removed, and the cage clunked apart. Sophie gave herself a shake, completely ignored her owner’s coos, and made a beeline for the brook. We followed to see what would happen.

Sophie sank in the water and had a good old wallow. I couldn’t help smiling. It was probably the first time she had ever done this, an act so natural for these animals. It must have felt wonderful after her scary trip.


Despite Patrice’s anxious twitters, she continued to disregard him and us. That was fine. If she was going to cope in her new habitat, she needed to become independent very quickly. We left food in the area that night and for several weeks after that.


It was a while before we saw Sophie again and we were becoming concerned that she hadn’t coped with being returned to the wild. Our worries were unfounded.

One day we found her grazing in the field. It was unmistakably Sophie. Her brightly coloured mane stuck up like a beacon. And contrary to my fears, she had gained weight. That boar was on top form. She sped past us, kicking up her heels as she galloped across the field, evidently happy in her new environment.



I reflected on the grand adventure Sophie had experienced in her young life. If it hadn’t been for Patrice’s kindness, she would surely have been dead, and we would not have had this magnificent animal roaming free in our woods. We still see her now and again. Her tall spiky mane is very distinctive, and there is still a faint trace of red paint.

We love our punk pig!



Saturday, 6 April 2019

The Magic of Carcassonne



Vicious blasts from the Autan wind roared down the Black Mountains, screaming across vast plains to Carcassone. Soldiers positioned high on crenellated battlements, shivering, drew in their cloaks, but they were no match for the penetrating icy gusts. Dear God, it was cold. Their jobs to defend the mighty Carcassonne from Catholic attackers was merciless. Life as a Cathar in the Middle Ages was tough. At least that’s how I imagined it must have been.

Happily, a visit last week from my friend, Trish, coincided with sunny skies. A history lover like me, I had the ideal treat in store. A trip to Carcassonne. Any old excuse really – it is one of my favourite historical sites.

 
It takes about two hours to reach the cité, long enough for me to get annoyingly excited. Trish probably found this bemusing, but then she had never been. She continued to humour me until I finally popped.

“Right, we’re very close now. When we get to the top of this hill look left. Try to close your eyes until we get there.”

“If I do that, Beth, I won’t  know when to open them.”

“Good point. Don’t worry, I’ll tell you. Hang on.”

“Okay, although I don’t know why you’re… Wow! It’s amazing.”

Too late, Trish had experienced her first sighting.



A Disneyworld of fairy turrets interlaced with perfect walls glittered in the spring sun – a hilltop jewel crowning the luscious Aude plain below. The meandering river close-by shimmered too as it flowed lazily around part of the fortification. This place is mesmerising.


We parked in a designated zone and climbed steep steps to the entrance. As Trish and her new hip would soon find out, there are lots of steps involved in a visit to Carcassonne. We approached the imposing entrance with its mighty drawbridge, stopping every now and again, trying to absorb the sheer scale of our surroundings. On one of the pillars, there is a stone replica of Lady Carcas. Her story, based on legend, tells how the city came to get its name. Here’s my take on it.

A long, long time ago during the eighth century, there was a Saracen princess named Lady Carcas. A feisty lady, she ruled the Knights of the cité Carcas after her husband died during the wars between Christians and Muslims. Charlemagne, King of the Franks and top victor, arrived with his army, hell-bent on reconquering the city for the Franks. But it wasn’t easy.

Carcas was besieged for years. The inhabitants struggled on, but by the sixth year, food and water were running out. The population began to starve. Lady Carcas, never one to give up on her people, ordered an inventory to be made of all remaining reserves. It didn’t take long.

The villagers brought her a few scraps together with a pig and a sack of wheat. It was the beast that gave her a cunning idea. Much to their surprise, Lady Carcas commanded that the pig be fed as much wheat as it could eat. Had she gone mad? They would soon find out.

The now corpulent animal was duly produced for inspection. Lady Carcas declared it ready for action. A group of soldiers grabbed the porker and hurled it at the attackers from the highest tower of the city walls. Unfortunate for the pig, but it impressed Charlemagne and his troops no end.

Believing the city had enough food to the point of wasting fat farm stock, Charlemagne lifted the siege. Overjoyed by the success of her plan, Lady Carcas had all the bells rung in the city. One of Charlemagne’s men exclaimed, “Carcas sonne!” (“Carcas sounds!”) And this is allegedly how the name of the city was born.  

Luckily we had chosen a quiet day to visit this most remarkable of landmarks. It allowed me to take a nauseating number of photos and for us both to amble around, reflecting on life as it might have been here during the Middle Ages.


We pottered along narrow cobbled streets. The same ones used by folks so many centuries ago. Were they crowded, smelly? Was petty crime rife here? Were there beggars and starving dogs looking for scraps? Did the bubonic plague touch the populace? Or was it clean, civilised and well-ordered? We suspected there were probably elements of each.

We passed several shops. I guessed many were housed in restored buildings using original medieval timbers, many of which were visible. This place was mind-blowing.


Did we want to buy a sword or a shield? A selection of herbal remedies, perhaps? Tempting, but no, not today thank you. On the other hand, all this gawping was working up an appetite. Distracted by whiffs of freshly baked cookies we followed our noses into a shop close-by.


The store walls were bursting with sweetmeats. Brightly coloured lollipops, fudge, chocolate, there were shelves of them. And then there were the biscuits, loads dominated the centre. A costumed lady approached with a box of goodies and coyly asked if we would like a sample. Absolutely definitely, yes, please! Feeling a tad guilty, we left the shop with an excellent selection of the larger types, convincing ourselves they would be needed later on. And they were.

Coffee was next before we explored the château and ramparts. Having been before I knew what to expect. Trish confirmed her new hip was in tip-top condition and ready for action, she’s a good sport, my pal.

Our tour began with a short film about the fortification’s history, one that extends over 2,500 years. The Romans first occupied its hilltop until the demise of the Western Roman Empire. After that, the city was held by the Visigoths, Saracens and Franks in turn.

The Trencavels, one of the most powerful Cathar families in the south of France between the tenth and thirteenth centuries, were once notable custodians of Carcassonne. During this period Pope Innocent III launched the crusade against the Cathar heretics. A political consequence of the Crusades was the eventual exile of the Trencavel family.

The besieged Carcassonne surrendered on the 15th August 1209.  In 1226, the Viscount of Carcassonne was attached to the royal estate and became a seneschal, an office equivalent to a steward. The city then took the form of the fortress that can be seen today.

Until the Treaty of the Pyrenees was signed in 1659, Carcassonne defended the border between France and Aragon. Battles and great fires ravaged the cité, causing devastation to its people and buildings. Over the following years, it gradually fell into ruins, perpetually bombarded and slowly neglected.

In 1844, the French state commissioned the architect, Eugene Viollet-le-Duc (who sadly died before he was able to see the fruits of his work), to restore the cité. The restoration, which began in 1853, was not completed until 1911 under the direction of his pupil Paul Boeswillwald. The renewal returned the royal city to its original splendour of the late thirteenth century with its featured pointed slate roofs. It was this we had come to see.


Still inside, and expertly by-passing the gift shop, we admired fragments of Romanesque frescoes, fine remnants of the distant past. The restored colours were vibrant, gorgeous. There were Gothic masonry treasures, grumpy gargoyles, a magnificent water urn and the original stone bust of Lady Carcas. These ancient rooms housed some of the cité’s archaeological collections, sadly we only had time to glimpse. Many more visits would be needed to do this place justice.  

Back out and we explored the footprint of another section housing wooden hoardings high above on one side. The overhanging wooden ramparts were attached to the upper walls of the fortress. Now restored, some would have provided protection to defenders on the walls, allowing them to shoot arrows or drop projectiles on attackers beneath. 


Others provided protection to the Trencavel family members against inclement weather. Looking around, we could see where the upper floors would have been in this immense building. The outlines of fireplaces, windows and doors told those stories.


Thank goodness for handrails. Hanging on for support, we clambered up the steep inner rampart steps (en route deciding historical records were wrong as medieval soldiers must have had exceedingly long legs), each was bevelled with action and age. Momentarily sheltered by the crenellated rampart wall, we poked our heads through to enjoy views towards the Black Mountains. Blimey, it was fresh! Despite it being a beautiful sunny day, the Autan was blowing at a stiff rate of knots. For special reasons, this famed wind deserves some explanation.

According to Lanuguedoc-france info., the Autan comes in two varieties: L’Autan blanc (white) and L’Autan noir (black). L’Autan blanc is a wind of good weather, (very) fresh in winter, warm in summer. The Autan noir is warm, bringing heavy rain of short duration.

Some days before it blows, calmness descends, characterised by crystal clear air. When this happens, farmers mournfully predict that l’Autan wants to blow.  The noise of this hot, dry wind causes insomnia. Also known as the Vent des Fous (the wind of the mad), it can blow for days on end, allegedly driving people as mad as the Mistral wind. For these reasons, some call it the devil’s wind and the wind of death.

Interestingly, the thirteenth century Song of the Crusade against the Cathars describes a gale of Autan on Sunday 1st July 1218 that coincided with the last attack by Crusaders against Toulouse. During this brutal period, its nicknames could not have been apter.

Nippy but keen, we continued enthusiastically, emotionally blown away by what we were seeing. Up and down knee-high stone steps we went.


Sometimes eye-level with vast slated turrets and barbicans, all designed to prevent attack by siege engines. We loitered beneath conical roofs, avoided murder holes, passed crenels made for defenders to unleash their weapons of war, eyed arrow slits in walls.    


We paused every now and again to feast our eyes on the interior. Like roofs? If so, you’d love Carcassonne. Sloped, rounded, damaged and always tiled, they form a higgledy-piggledy morass protected by the mighty defensive walls.  


“Hang on a minute,” said Trish, “that looks like someone’s home.”

She was right.


Trish had spotted a back garden. Mark you, not a normal one. This was decorated by Roman statues, possibly authentic ones. Amazingly the cité has 50 residences. While it can’t be easy living in the second most popular tourist centre in France, I couldn’t help thinking about how exciting it must be to experience life inside these walls.


Back down we went passing a dishevelled area which looked excitingly undiscovered. Who knows what riches might be hidden below that turf? 

We strolled along more cobbled streets warmed by the afternoon sun and nicely protected from that pesky wind. We passed divine looking restaurants, tempting shops and headed towards the gothic church. I was dying for Trish to see this.

In 1898, Pope Leo XIII upgraded it to a Basilica. The sense of serenity is extraordinary in this place. 

Silently, we studied the exquisite stained glass windows, they’re some of the oldest in the south of France, the graceful vaulted arches, and the breath-taking simplicity of the ceiling design.




Candles flickered along the sides, highlighting the pulpit, the cylindrical pillars with sculptured capitals and the magnificent organ pipes. What a treat to spend time here.



Breathing a contented sigh of resignation we reluctantly left. We paused to feel jealous about folks lucky enough to holiday at the hotel next door, promising ourselves we would stay there one day and book tickets for one of the famed Carcassonne festivals.

Time was against us now, and we still had one more section to explore. This meant that late lunch turned into another biscuit from our goodie bag washed down with a fat ice-cream. Not a day for dieters but it was a welcome combo.


Our amble back to the car was via the outer ramparts. Once again we gasped in wonder at the enormity of this place. We craned our necks at the turrets high above.


We chuckled at the birds flying overhead. Those colour coded pigeons had found a safe home.


Three kilometres of ramparts, two fortresses (during its history), four gates and 52 towers – we had only scratched the surface. No wonder this great city was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1997.  



And did my friend, Trish, enjoy herself?


“Can we come here next time I visit, please?” she pleaded. 

Friday, 1 March 2019

Interviewed by the author, Kathyrn Gauci


My guest today on A Literary World, is author and confirmed Francophile, Beth Haslam. I was honoured and excited when Beth agreed to do an interview with me as I am a great admirer, not only of her books, but her passion and sparkle for all things French. She is both a raconteur and has a great eye for photography, as you will see here. If any of you have ever thought about buying a place in France – and I know many of my friends have, including myself – and you want to know what life would be like, then read on. You are in for a treat. So without more ado, kick off your shoes, relax with a glass of wine, and let Beth transport you into life in France.
Welcome to A Literary World, Beth, we are delighted to have you with us.
It’s such a treat to have this chat, Kathryn, thanks very much for setting things up so nicely for me.
1. What made you move to France?
Semi-retirement was beckoning so Jack, my husband, and I decided to buy a second home. I’m a passionate nature lover and for years had romanticised about observing wildlife and pottering about with the dogs on our own land. Jack, a mechanical engineer, did not share these thoughts at all. However, as an obsessive maker and mender of innumerable, generally oily things, a chunk of land suited him well too.
As country folk intending to spend much of our time outdoors, a decent climate was important. We quickly ruled out the UK, because of our unreliable weather and the comparatively high cost of land. Europe was the answer.
France, which suited our modest language skills, also ticked the majority of our other boxes. Accessible, sound bureaucratic infrastructure, southern locations with great weather, and the happy discovery that property and land prices were much lower than the UK.

2. When did you decide to become an author?
I’d love to say something frightfully grand like it was a calling. Sadly that’s not the case. It was an accident really, in the main due to our domaine (estate) hunting adventures. They proved to be so extraordinary that one day Jack remarked: “D’you know, you should write a book about this.” So I did. I thoroughly enjoyed telling our stories and found, to my delight, that others enjoyed reading them. The series has developed as a consequence of our continued escapades.
3. Can you tell us what your books are about?
They recount our country estate-buying endeavours in France and our lives here as we have settled in. The first bit sounds easy doesn’t it? My painstaking property research implied that it should have been a simple enough undertaking to accomplish. It wasn’t.
Jack and I, along with our two fat dogs, set off to view several domaines over three weeks. Why bring the dogs? My idea. It didn’t go down well with my husband, who has the patience of a gnat and therefore becomes easily irritated. Nevertheless, I had special reasons.
At the time we thought it would be a tame, semi-holiday, you know, pop into a lovely old homestead to see if it clicked with us before driving off to the next. The reality couldn’t have been more different.
Natural disasters, near-death experiences on crumbling roads, dog catastrophes, eccentric aristocrats, mix-ups with the Cathars and a dead car. You name it, it was chucked at us. I couldn’t make this stuff up. Our final buying decision arose out of another mishap. It turned into a perfect example of serendipity.
We eventually bought and embarked on a project that has changed our lives. Our exploits continue today as does the series.
In some ways, my books are a story of our gradually developing love affair with France and her people. It burgeons with each month, each year that passes. Moving here is the best thing we have ever done.

4. I noticed you have a keen eye for photography, whether it be the French countryside, architecture, or your animals. Were you always interested in photography?
You are very kind. Sadly I do not possess any technical prowess, I am, however, an inveterate snapper. As someone who adores wildlife and plants, come rain or shine I’m out there every day with the dogs recording our rambles with photos. They are nothing special, just snapshots of the simple wonders that surround us. Sharing some via social media is a lovely way to reach folks in far-flung corners of the world.

5. One of your passions is growing your own produce. What do you grow? Have you expanded into areas you never imagined, and has it been easy to do this?
Thank you so much for mentioning my beloved veggie patch! My first forays ended with mixed fortunes.

Our soil is clay based. The summers and autumns here are generally hot and dry. This transforms the earth from boot-clinging claggy mud in the winter to a concrete-hard substance better suited for hard court tennis players as the year progresses.

I found that crops such as plump peas, slender haricot beans and pretty much anything that fruits above the ground were a joy to grow and gather. The root crops were a different matter altogether.
Come harvesting time, with trowel in hand I stared lovingly at my magnificent chubby-topped carrots, parsnips, radishes and turnips. Every one a beauty. All set solid in the ground.
I hacked around the edges with my armoury of garden tools to no avail, reducing my crops to a collection of battered has-beens with chipped edges. Temporarily thwarted, there have been no more forays into root planting for me since. I’ll have another go one day using homemade raised tubs instead.
My current above-ground varieties comprise the usual ‘greens’ and salad veggies. Garlic too, of course, it’s a must-grow crop here. These, together with a goodly variety of citrus and other fruits, are contributing towards my heady goals for self-sufficiency.
6. Most of us associate France with good food and wine, my readers would never forgive me if we didn’t talk about this. Can you tell us what are your favourite dishes?
We live in a region that used to be called Midi-Pyrénées (now Occitanie). It’s a rural area famed for excellent food, also the longevity of its inhabitants, although having seen the vast quantities of foie gras and cheese consumed here I sometimes wonder why.

We regularly dine at friend’s homes where we get treated to regional favourites. One of the most memorable was the first invitation we received to supper with a revered fruit grower and his wife (their home is shown in the photo below). Both in their eighties, they’re a charming couple. It was madame’s first go at entertaining l’anglais, and she evidently decided to add a touch of internationalism to the canapés.
It was quite dark in the farmhouse kitchen, so identification was difficult when madame plonked a mountain of meat in front of us. As we dutifully cooed at it, I suddenly realised what we were looking at. It was a great big pile of Spam.
In spite of being a die-hard carnivore, if there’s a foodstuff Jack really dislikes, I’m afraid it’s Spam. He complains that it’s full of unidentifiable substances and should have been phased out when ration books were dispensed with. I glanced at him, hoping he hadn’t realised what he was looking at, equally hoping the gin and several glasses of wine already imbibed might have mellowed his attitude towards this reconstituted luncheon meat.
Madame glowed with pride at her pink pile. Monsieur said she had hunted high and low for the one dish she’d been told was a particular fave amongst all English people. It was such a thoughtful gesture, we just couldn’t let her down. The plate was ceremoniously pushed towards us. Our hosts watched, refusing to partake themselves, plainly thrilled at the thought of pleasing their guests with such a treasure.
Satisfied they had achieved their aim, it was monsieur’s turn to inject another wow-factor with his production of the main course. A dish that originated from Gascony, out came a large casserole dish full of what appeared to be grease. I was fascinated, poor Jack, still recovering from his Spam overdose, was horrified.
Monsieur said it was his home produced confit de canard, a traditional preparation method popular before the days of refrigeration. He had slaughtered several ducks at the end of summer and then salted, cooked and stored them in fat to preserve throughout the winter. “Erm…so, this makes the dish around six months old?” asked Jack, tentatively. “Ah oui!” came the triumphant reply.
Spooning large portions on each of our plates, monsieur assured us the meat would be tender as the fat had continued the chemical process of enhancing both the flavour and texture of the meat. And he was right. It was absolutely delicious, even Jack enjoyed it. I later learned the word confit is the past participle of the French verb, to preserve. That made sense.
Another French couple we know well are from the north. It was Andrée (featured in the photo here) who introduced us to the amazing Flamiche au maroilles, a cheesy wonder on a pastry base originating from le Nord-Pas-de-Calais. It can be served as a canapé, light supper accompanied by a green salad or whenever you fancy a savoury snack. I loved it so much I inveigled my friend into allowing me to write a blog about her prowess with the dish. Here’s the link.
https://bethhaslam.blogspot.com/2017/04/french-cuisine-and-canine-chefs.html
The French are famous for eating most body parts. Nothing much gets wasted here. A favourite in our area is gizzards. Generally duck or goose, our lot are apt to sneak them into as many dishes as possible.
Gizzards are not a foodstuff I would go out of my way to choose. That said, after my first experience of eating Salade Landaise at a restaurant, I’ve become a covert fan. My proficiency with the language was still very poor at this stage, and I gaily assumed gésiers was an interesting word for a salad vegetable. Not so. I quickly discovered that landaise salad is a mix of lettuce, sweetcorn, tomatoes, pine kernels and a curiously unidentifiable selection of warm objects.
I munched my way through with relish before asking about the ingredients. I confess I was surprised to learn that the wrinkly bits were gizzards. Morsels of Bayonne ham and lardons, bacon pieces, had also been used. It was excellent.
A stalwart in our parts is French onion soup. The best I have ever tasted was in a super little restaurant I dined at with my sister in our principal department city, Montauban.
The proprietor directed us to a table lit with a cute chintz lamp. We settled down and listened to our three menu choices. Everything was homemade here, she said, describing each. I had no idea which of the mouth-watering options to go for, in the end plumping for onion soup, side salad and ham-filled croissant. We both did.
What an inspired choice!
Mammoth portions soon arrived. Everything was a taste sensation, especially the chunky soup. Smoked, caramelised onions in a broth laced with white wine and Cognac, the melted, toasted cheese topping made it a culinary triumph. Each mouthful yielded comfort – just the job on a nippy day.
Two other foodstuffs the French here are mostly crazy about are mushrooms and cheese. They tend to get picky about precise varieties, though. Aficionados of anything that grows attached or close to a tree, where fungi are concerned, our locals particularly adore cèpes, girolles, chanterelles and trompette de la mort (trumpet of the dead, a blackish mushroom which looks as ghastly as it sounds).
As for cheese, no main meal is complete without a revered goût (taste). Restaurant trolleys heave under the strain of multiple varieties presented after the main course has been consumed. Soft cheeses, hard, blue-veined (Roquefort, of course), extremely smelly, there are far too many to name. But they are all deeply loved. My favourite is Saint Agur, a mellow blue cheese produced in the Auvergne with a winning combination of buttery, salty, sharp flavours.
7. Favourite French wine?
I confess I have three.
I do enjoy rosé. It is light, adaptable and a perfect aperitif. My favourite is local to us. The Gaillac rosé is produced in the wine region of Toulouse, south-west France.
As for whites, we are undoubtedly spoiled with many fine varieties. Among my favourites is the French crisp Pinot Gris. Thought to be a mutation of the red grape Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris’ skins are not green like other white grapes, but instead have a greyish blue hue, which gives them their name.
For the more sophisticated palate, I think it’s hard to beat Chablis, an excellent dry wine renowned for the purity of its aroma and taste. Chablis provides the perfect accompaniment to fish and light meat dishes or just on its own, chilled and sipped gently on a sunny evening.
As for reds, my absolute favourite is Chateauneuf du Pape. The first vines were planted by the ancient Romans in the Southern Rhone Valley. Chateauneuf du Pape (The Pope’s New Castle) takes its name from the period when the Pope moved to Avignon in 1309. It is indeed a noble wine.
8. Favourite French movie?
Amélie, a very famous movie about a young waitress in a Montmartre bar. Struggling with her own isolation, she spends her time observing people and letting her imagination wander. She has set a goal: to do good to those around her. The path of Amélie is coloured by encounters with quirky characters including Georgette, the hypochondriac tobacconist and Lucien, the grocery clerk. It is sensitive and wonderfully entertaining.

9. Favourite French music?
I have an eclectic taste in music. As an early music singer and therefore Baroque lover, I’m naturally drawn to composers such as Charles Gounod. Johnny Hallyday yodels out of my radio most days as does Charles Aznavour, both still national heroes. But there is one particular type of music I’m drawn to. In our part of the country, no fête is complete, no spectacle is ended without it, and summer markets reverberate with it. It is those cheery strains of an accordion. It is quintessentially French, and I can’t help but love it.
10. What advice would you give to others who want to buy a house in France and have a lifestyle change?
As a couple of business people we thought we had everything nicely buttoned-up, you know, organised. We had no idea how different things would turn out to be. I would say, be brave and follow your dreams, but have a plan. Be flexible and expect the unexpected.
Try your best to learn the language and immerse yourself in the culture. Surround yourself with locals and celebrate their local customs. Before long they’ll become part of yours too. Your life will become enriched, and you’ll end up firm friends with utterly delightful people.
11. What’s next for you?
I am dying to start work on the next episode in our French adventures. I’ll need to adopt a pretty disciplined approach, though, as this year will be busy as usual. The privilege of owning a sizable domaine brings with it daily responsibilities to the buildings, land and animals we share it with.
We will also continue our Reeve’s pheasant breeding programme. Watching those magnificent cock birds with their ridiculously long tails strut their stuff among the wild boar and deer gives us enormous pleasure.
When I find a millisecond, I’m determined to visit three fabulous villages. Rocamadour in the Lot, Dordogne, Bruniquel in our home department of Tarn-et-Garonne and Cordes-sur-Ciel in the Tarn. I am also waiting for one of my history-loving pals to come and stay. She’ll be my perfect excuse for a return visit to one of my favourite places on earth, Carcassonne in Languedoc.

Here are tourist links for you to enjoy and what I hope to experience soon.
https://www.visit-dordogne-valley.co.uk/
https://www.les-plus-beaux-villages-de-france.org/fr/nos-villages/bruniquel/
https://www.france-voyage.com/tourism/cordes-ciel-733.htm
https://www.tourism-carcassonne.co.uk/
So, yes, it’s going to be another action-packed year, another where I’m sure there won’t be a dull moment. That’s life here in rural France, and I love it.
Thanks again so much for having me on your blog, Kathryn. It’s been an honour and a pleasure to spend time with you.
Thank you for sharing so much of your life with us, Beth. I also share a love of the same wines and accordion music – so much so that both are mentioned in my WWII novel Conspiracy of Lies. Claire Bouchard enjoyed Bal Musette and she was also a connoisseur of French wine – La belle vie.

The links for Beth’s books.
http://bit.ly/2ReENSg
http://bit.ly/2RbaWKv
http://bit.ly/2Rdylev
http://bit.ly/2GFGkA6
Blog. http://bethhaslam.blogspot.com/
Twitter @fatdogsfrance
I would also like to give a special mention to Susan Allen, Owner and Editor in Chief of The English Informer Group, (Do check it out, fellow Francophiles. You will be well rewarded.)
Susan very kindly featured an earlier interview I did for Beth’s blog. Thank you Susan.
www.theenglishinformer.com
https://www.theenglishinformer.com/article_detail/Guest-blog-Kathryn-Gauci